In the heart of Europe lies a city with over six hundred years of history, famous for its mineral springs, spectacular colonnades and timeless elegance. Karlovy Vary. This spa town surrounded by rocks is a living embodiment of historical traditions. It is here that Art de Suisse, a family-run shop of exceptional watches, proudly brings the world's oldest watch brands to discerning collectors. Among them, one name resonates with special meaning: the Zenith.
And today, this famous Swiss manufacture confirms its place at the zenith of watchmaking with the launch of the G.F.J. This is an exceptional watch commemorating the 160th anniversary of the brand's founding. Named after the brand's visionary founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, the G.F.J. reimagines the movement that shaped the very essence of precision watchmaking, the legendary Calibre 135.
The machine that defined precision
To understand the G.F.J. model, we must first highlight the importance of the 135 caliber. In the mid-20th century, long before the advent of digital measurement, the pinnacle of watchmaking was measured at chronometric competitions in observatories. Observatories could determine the accuracy of a watch by accurately observing the rotation of the Earth's axis. These rigorous tests, held at observatories such as Neuchâtel and Geneva, tested the accuracy of the best mechanical movements. Winning such awards was not merely a badge of honour; it was a declaration of mastery.
Zenith took part in these trials as early as 1897 and quickly gained a great reputation, winning a record 2333 chronometric prizes. This is more than any other brand has ever won. At the centre of this success was the Calibre 135, designed by Ephrem Jobin in 1949. It was developed specifically for competitions and was produced in two variants - a commercial version and the famous calibre 135-O, which was designed exclusively for competition in observatories.
Between 1950 and 1954, this exceptional machine won first place five times in a row at the Neuchâtel Observatory, a feat never before achieved. The triumphs of the movements were confirmed by such famous chronometrists as Charles Fleck and René Gygax. Its oversized inertia and off-centre minute wheel made it a marvel of mechanical architecture and a watchmaker's dream.
G.F.J.: Heritage meets the present
In 2022, Zenith briefly revived the Calibre 135-O in a collectible collaboration with master watchmaker Karim Voutilainen and Phillips Auction House, sparking worldwide enthusiasm. With the G.F.J. watch, Zenith is now taking this calibre reinvention further, combining heritage with cutting-edge innovation.
The movement housed in the G.F.J. watch retains the dimensions and layout of its historical predecessor, including the distinctive off-centre layout and large inertia. However, it has been thoroughly modernised. The new Calibre 135 now boasts a 72-hour power reserve, improved gearing efficiency, a Breguet thread and hacking for precise time setting, features that were unthinkable in the 1950s.
In addition, the machine is COSC certified to measure time within +/- 2 seconds per day. This is a stunning achievement in the field of mechanical timekeeping.
The architecture of the caliber is as beautiful as it is functional. The bridges are decorated with a guilloche finish with a brick pattern inspired by the red and white brick façade of the Zenith Manufacture in Le Locle. It still bears the initials of G.F.J., the founder of the Manufacture, who, by founding it, realised his ambition of uniting all watchmaking crafts under one roof. Every stone, gear and surface has been finished to the highest standards, from the winding wheel hand-polished using the black-polishing method to the satin finish of the pinnacle.
An ode to timeless design
The G.F.J. watch itself is the epitome of elegance and balanced proportions. Its 39mm platinum case is slim and sculptural. The profile of the lunette is multi-tiered and the masts are slightly curved in an arc, both of which evoke the clean lines of 1950s design. Beneath the domed sapphire crystal is a three-part dial whose appearance is second to none. Here again, the design works with the motif of bricks executed by guilloche, in the hour track, which also features hour indexes in 18k white gold. The dark blue centre of the dial is formed by a lapis lazuli semi-precious stone. The natural grains of gold pyrite in the stone shimmer like distant stars, subtly referencing Zenith's celestial namesake.
The mother-of-pearl off-centre seconds hand is located at 6 o'clock and the white gold baton hands run elegantly across the dial. Every detail is thoughtful and precise and whispers rather than shouts. The look of the watch stays true to the understated sophistication that the Zenith brand is known for.
To increase the versatility of its use, the G.F.J. watch comes with three precision-crafted straps: one in dark blue alligator leather, one in black calfskin and the third in blue saffiano leather. For collectors who prefer a cohesive metal aesthetic, a seven-row platinum pull is also available.
Zenith and Karlovy Vary: Places with a sense of heritage and legacy
As one of the few cities in Europe that has preserved its historic core and craft traditions, Karlovy Vary offers not only picturesque scenery but also context. Just as G.F.J. reflects Zenith's reverence for its roots, so Carlsbad represents a continuity of elegance across the centuries. Both the watch brand and the city have evolved over time while remaining deeply rooted in the heritage of history.
This shared spirit of heritage history and excellence draws Art de Suisse to represent brands such as Zenith. As a family business, Art de Suisse understands the commitment to continuity in the form of passing on values, precision and passion from one generation to the next. Whether it is the finely tuned stroke of a chronometer or the quiet ritual of winding a mechanical watch, Carlsbad and Zenith believe in the beauty of time well spent.
In this city of mineral waters and neoclassical charm, Zenith watches are more than a status symbol. It is a legacy, a link to the past and a promise for the future.
A tribute to the vision of Georges Favre-Jacot
The story of Zenith began in 1865, when Georges Favre-Jacot revolutionised Swiss watchmaking by bringing together under one roof all the disciplines needed to create a watch - design, construction, finishing and assembly. His manufacture in Le Locle, one of the cradles of horology, became the first vertically integrated watch factory in Switzerland. This bold vision enabled Zenith to create movements of unrivalled quality, including the legendary El Primero and, of course, the Calibre 135.
A G.F.J. watch is more than just a watch - it's a tribute to this pioneering philosophy. As Romain Marietta, CPO of Zenith, says: "It's about honouring this legacy while sharing it with a new generation of collectors." Every detail, from the architecture of the movement to the texture of the dial, reflects this balance between respect for the past and preparedness for the future.
A rare opportunity
The G.F.J. watches have been released in a limited edition of 160 pieces - one for each year since the brand's inception - and are only available at Zenith boutiques and authorised retailers. With its combination of technical achievement, historical respectability and artistic expression, it is destined to become the cornerstone of any serious watch collection.
Its rarity is matched only by its beauty and the timeless character of the city that hosts it. In Karlovy Vary, where centuries-old traditions meet modern luxury, G.F.J. finds its perfect backdrop.
Art de Suisse: At Art de Suisse, we pride ourselves not only on selecting exceptional watches, but also on delivering them with the personal care and attention that quality watches deserve. We are pleased to remind our readers and valued clients that we offer delivery of Zenith watches throughout the country.
